Category Archives: dance

DAY 30 – ‘Metamorphosis: Titian 2012′ exhibition, National Gallery, London

Watching a goddess bathe. Diana, Mark Wallinger, 2012 © the artist, courtesy of the Anthony Reynolds Gallery. Photograph – the National Gallery, London.

I went along to this exhibiotion more or less on a whim as I was in London for a job interview (crossy fingers!) and decided just to bowl along to the National Gallery and see what was on. I’m so, so glad I did as this was ambitious, dense and superb. The National Gallery’s ‘Metamorphosis: Titian 2012′ exhibition is a collaboration between the gallery and The Royal Ballet, and is a multi-arts response to three paintings by Titian (see below).

Diana and Callisto

Diana and Actaeon

The Death of Actaeon 

The paintings tell the typically gruesome story of Diana – how she banished the virgin nymph Callisto from her entourage after the other nymphs forcefully stripped her to reveal her pregnancy by Zeus; how the hunter Actaeon accidentally saw Diana and her nymphs bathing; and how Diana wreaks her revenge on Actaeon by transforming him into a stag and having his own hounds tear him to pieces. Not much of a sense of humour, these Roman goddesses. These beautiful paintings – worth seeing just in themselves, as they are exhibited together for the first time since the 18th century – are responded to by artists Chris Ofili, Mark Wallinger and Conrad Shawcross, and in three new ballets: Diana and Actaeon, Machina and Trespass.

I looked at Chris Ofili’s paintings first. I’m not always a huge fan of Ofili’s stuff – occasionally I struggle to see the purpose in what he does – but these works were pretty blinding. His Trinidad home and the Roman myths combined to show the Diana legends in a riot of tropical colour and a lot – A LOT – of penises.

Ovid – Actaeon, Chris Ofili 2011-2012 © Chris Ofili

Yes, Mr Ofili made it quite clear what he thinks the myths all boil down to! Yet despite the proliferation of phalluses – giant, small, erect, flaccid (great word, that) – Ofili never loses sight of the magical, mystical elements of the stories. Bodies weave in and out of each other, figures twisting into stag and water, and you can almost hear the music the figures are singing, seductive and beguiling. These are certainly not paintings of the real world, and Ofili manages to lift the myths away from white draperies and into something much more secretive and strange.

Mark Wallinger’s installation Diana was the real surprise to me. Indeed, I think some people weren’t even sure there was anything in the room at all! At first glance it looks like a black room with a black box in the middle of it and some splashing sounds, and a lot of people took a quick look and then scarpered. However, walk round the box and you soon come to a window half-hidden by a venetian blind, through which you can glimpse a messy bathroom. Walk round a bit further and you can see – through a broken pane in the next window of opaque glass – a girl washing in the bath, her hair piled on top of her head like a goddess, wearing some bronze Roman jewellery. Walk round to the front again and you see a keyhole in the door. This feels by far the most intrusive part of the installation, as you have to get down on your knees to look through it, and the view is directly at her head and torso as she bathes. Standing in front of a bored security guard, it makes you feel rather filthy. For the purposes of the installation, you have become Actaeon, experiencing his emotions as he watches Diana bathe – guilt, excitement, and an unwillingness to tear yourself away despite the risks. Of all the parts of the exhibition, I found that this installation was the one which provoked the most definite emotional response in me, and I liked it a lot.

Next up was Conrad Shawcross’s robot installation Trophy – a robotic arm (Diana) which has carved out Actaeon in the form of a wooden antler and now examines it curiously with a light poised at its tip. I must say, I found this part of the exhibition the hardest to swallow, and the one which added least to my appreciation of the Titian paintings and the Diana myths. However, what I did like was the way the light, as it moved around the antler, cast moving shadows of it around the room, turning the room and the people in it into a part of the woodland glade in which Diana examines the dead Actaeon.

Next were videos of the Royal Ballet’s various takes on the Diana myths, and the rehearsals for them. I thought it was fascinating to see the choreographers working with the dancers to create the emotions inherent in the stories. In particular I liked Will Tuckett’s scene in which Actaeon is run down by his hounds, each of which is played by a dancer sporting a hound puppet designed by Ofili. The movement of the ‘pack’ is perfect, as is the terror and desperation of the dancer playing Actaeon.

Lastly we saw not only each artist’s design for the set of the ballets – including a 7 metre high version of Shawcross’s robot and a gorgeous layered jungle scene from Ofili – but then videos of the whole collaboration coming together, in the shape of footage of the finished ballets. This, I feel, was a truly wonderful collaboration, a pooling of artistic resources to create a new dimension to centuries-old paintings and injecting new emotional life into Classical myths touching on very modern issues: sexuality, privacy, intrusion, conquest, seduction, clashing values. Go and see it!

Diana and Actaeon, The Royal Ballet

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DAY 9 – Tortosa Renaissance Festival

They played for me, pa rum pum pum pum!

Sometimes when I’m getting on with whatever it is I’m doing during my day, I’ll stop and wonder about something. These little ponders can be about anything. For example, I might wonder how, when I put a train ticket into one of the machines at the platform gates, the machine knows whether it’s valid or not. I might perhaps wonder if I was swimming with a gun and a shark attacked me, whether or not I could use the gun to shoot the shark or whether the gun’s being wet would render it useless and I would be better using it to bop the shark on the nose.

Deep philosophical questions like these often occur to me. One of the most regular ponders I get when seeing somebody doing something in the nature of a hobby is, ‘I wonder how s/he got into doing that in the first place?’ Yesterday my whole day was pretty much one long extension of that very ponder.

While idly browsing the net yesterday looking for new things I found out that Tortosa – a town a couple of hours away from Barcelona by train – was celebrating the last day of its four-day Renaissance Festival. Not one to pass up an opportunity of a new experience these days, I jumped on a train and headed for Tortosa. When I arrived in Tortosa at about 6:40pm I discovered that the last train back to Barcelona was leaving in 45 minutes’ time. The first train in the morning left at 6am. I had a decision to make: should I have a quick shufty at the festival then beat a hasty retreat, or should I try and make it an all-nighter and take the first train back? I of course plumped for the latter option, and I am very, very glad I did.

I arrived just in time to see three bands dressed in Renaissance garb playing drums and shawms (a kind of medieval oboe) marching down the road. I marched right after them and came upon a park full of people milling around dressed in Renaissance costumes.

What? I’m just relaxing with my pal, Mr Half-An-Eagle.

It’s a Renaissance interpretation of a snowy owl. Or something.

For the record, it was bloody hot, I have no idea how they coped.

Dude in the middle was a massive flirt, it was highly satisfactory.

The costumes everybody wore were amazing – so detailed and beautiful – and I was really happy to be pottering about amongst them all and chatting. Well, that was definitely worth staying for, I thought. Perhaps I’ll find somewhere to sit down in a while for a coffee. Little did I know this was just the precursor to a gruelling schedule of fun.

As I wandered back down the road the crowd seemed to have grown noticeably larger. Something looked like it was about to happen. It did. All the assembled Renaissance folk in the park gathered together and took part in a giant parade down the main street. They were led by two riders on beautiful high-stepping horses who danced their way down the parade route.

Horsies!

They were followed by everything you could possibly imagine.

Mythical beasties!

Giants!

Musicians!

The military!

Tumblers!

Stilt walkers!

Geese!

Trumpeters!

Fishermen!

Mini horses!

Horse display team!

CAMELS!

I’ll tell you, there is nothing that makes a day better than unexpected camels. They were so lovely! I’ve decided that some day I want to own a camel. I’ll give it a good stock camel name like Alice or Hump-phrey and we’ll ride around together all day long. This is my new mission.

Anyway, when that had gone past I realised that the party was just getting started. For the festival the whole of the old neighbourhood of Tortosa is transformed into a Renaissance town and so far I had only had a tiny glimpse of it. All the streets were hung with banners – not plasticky Disneyworld-Renaissance-Experience affairs but festoons of velvet and gaily coloured cotton emblazoned with heraldic sigils and gold thread.

Rejoice!

Ain’t no party like a Renaissance part-AY! HO! HEY!

Stalls packed into the little winding streets sold everything from spices to swords, hippy jewellery and fans to stinking cheeses and lanterns, mead to mojitos. The scale of the thing was just mind-boggling.

I decided to try and find a hostel room – not an easy task considering the streets were packed with thousands upon thousands of people and there appeared to be only two hotels. However, as luck would have it I got a room immediately at a very comfortable hotel with breakfast included for only 15 euros. SCORE! Back to the party!

The choice of food was endless but I settled for a no-doubt terribly Renaissance baldana (black pudding) sandwich and a timeless frosty beer.

Giant racks of ribs being sizzled to a crisp.

The cauldron had some kind of potion in it no doubt.

It would be useless for me to enumerate all the awesome things about this festival. I would go back in a heartbeat. It had the atmosphere of a metal festival, but enclosed in a small, cosy town with a castle, amazing cathedral and more monasteries than you can waggle a monk at. Highlights included an impromptu Renaissance flag dancing display at midnight, being serenaded by a guy playing a lute and chatting to some terribly attractive bagpipers.

Seriously. Amazing.

The town itself is worth going to as well, though I didn’t get to see inside the cathedral this morning as it was closed. My hotel – the Tortosa Parc – was very comfortable and gave me a breakfast which included ham, eggs, cheese, pains au chocolat, orange juice, coffee, bread, jam and chocolate Swiss roll. AMAZING.

The gigantic slab of a cathedral.

Cathedral from the castle above it! The castle is now a hotel, which is a bit of a shame but hey.

Oh, and just one more thing, just in case you needed an extra incentive to go to this insane and lovely festival…

I totally met some camels. BOOM!

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DAY 7 – Buster Keaton film at Montjuïc Castle with live pianist and tap-dancing accompaniment

This was one of those opportunities that when I heard about it made me go, ‘I have to do that’. In the summer Montjuïc Castle in Barcelona hosts an open-air cinema, with movies projected onto a huge screen set up against the castle walls. Vast crowds flock to watch movies at the castle, picnic and have a few beers. The castle itself is lovely, which was one very compelling reason to go.

See? Pretty.

I also love Buster Keaton films and the one playing last night was Sherlock Jr, a classic to end all classics. My cousin Emily and her pal Rachael were very game and said they’d like to go too when I asked (thanks guys!) so off we trooped. Montjuïc Castle is at the top of a very high, very steep hill with amazing views of Barcelona.

See? View-y.

This does mean, however, that it’s a bit of a bugger to climb so we did the sensible thing and engaged a four-wheeled equipage to do the hard work for us. When we arrived the crowd was already a couple of thousand strong and growing so we grabbed a likely looking spot and spread out with our picnic supplies (note: one litre of Carrefour own-brand champagne-esque cider at 79 cents a bottle is very drinkable). The screen was set up in front of the castle’s ivy-clad wall and a jazz band was tootling away on the stage in front of it.

It was just like the Odeon, only without teenagers fingering each other in the back row and dodgy smells. Oh, did I also mention it was at a castle?

Castle jazz… Nice.

Pretty ladies!

Quite excited now!

The film was due to begin at 10pm but I hadn’t allowed for the fact that this was Catalan timing, so this actually translated as ‘Trailers and assorted other stuff will begin at 10:20pm, the film will not start for aaaaaaaages.’ It was fun though! The ‘assorted other stuff’ ended up being the pianist who was accompanying the film (as Buster Keaton movies are of course silent) playing some of his Joplin-esque compositions and two incredibly talented tap-dancers doing a kind of tap-duel to a djembe accompaniment. So far, so average-night-out-at-the-cinema.

We were starting to wonder, great as they were, what the tap dancers were doing there, but all became clear when the film started, the piano began to play an accompaniment and the tap-dancers started to… well, dance along to it.

It begins!

The tap-dancers and pianist provided a perfectly synchronised accompaniment to Sherlock Jr, which added an extra element of fun to watching this wonderful film. If you have never seen Sherlock Jr, do so please. In brief, Keaton plays a cinema projectionist who falls asleep and has a dream that he is a great detective helping his fiancée out of a scrape with his rival. It’s hilarious and a masterpiece of slapstick – the billiards scene and the motorbike chase in particular are incredible – and the crowd at the castle loved it. Peels of laughter rang out and there was a lovely party atmosphere to the proceedings.

We headed home after the movie had finished with a definite sense that we had seen something unique and special. My feeling is that everyone should see a Buster Keaton film, if possible projected on a castle with tap-dancers and a pianist. Accept no substitutes!

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DAY 5 – Bellydancing

This experience took me so far out of my comfort zone it might as well have been a giant arm yanking me out of my bed and spilling my tea. Bellydancing?! Me?!

Yep.

I should perhaps explain first of all that in many ways I am very English. I am easily embarrassed, quite self-conscious and most of all I am very uncomfortable dancing in front of other people unless I’ve got a couple of pints of chunky beer down my throat. Yet despite this, off to bellydancing class I went in the name of novelty. I’m even a little over-qualified in terms of the belly I have. Let’s see what it’s got.

I got the in from a fellow teacher, Irene, who goes twice a week and loves it. She told me the name of the school – Munique Neith Bellydancing Academy – and I did a little research. Turns out this wasn’t just any bellydancing school, but the biggest bellydancing school in Europe, and very well-respected. Eek! I must admit, I was pretty nervous by the time I showed up.

The school itself is lovely – very different from your average gym or leisure centre. It’s painted in warm, orangey tones and decked out with Egyptian statues and pictures. As soon as you step in the door you begin to feel exotic and as if you really can take a step away from normal life and become a sultry siren of the desert for an hour and a half.

Just your average gym then.

Just like a Fitness First.

There were around 12 of us in the beginners class, which was taken by a lovely lady called Amaru who moved with a quite startling grace. She began by taking us through some basic moves, building them up into more complicated ones. When I watched her, the moves seemed simplicity itself but when I came to try them I felt (and looked) awkward and absurd! Why didn’t my hips turn in one fluid line like hers? They seemed to judder along in a series of jerks!

One particular move had me completely flummoxed. We were supposed to shake our shoulders back and forth while keeping our hips still. I just couldn’t do it! I looked like a Thunderbird puppet trying desperately to keep a fart in. I also got quite self-conscious about my knees. I was the only one who’d turned up in little shorts rather than three quarter-length trousers and it made my knees feel very exposed to the eagle eyes of Amaru.

Gradually the moves were built into a small routine. I got through it, all the while realising that while my arms were ok my feet had a mind of their own, and then when I thought about my feet my arms starting whirling around of their own accord. Thankfully most other people in the class seemed to have similar problems and the atmosphere was light-hearted and jokey, so the nervousness I had felt at the beginning evaporated away.

I honestly had fun – a lot more fun than I had expected – doing the bellydancing class, and I can’t remember when I was last that concentrated on something I was doing! I’d definitely recommend it to anyone who’s curious, but be warned: it’s a lot more physical than it looks!

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